Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Napoli and the Beauty Surrounding It

    Napoli was just a convenient jump-off place to reach our destinations south of Roma. We took the quick Italo train and we were in Napoli after a couple of hours trip. From the train, we have appreciated the difference between Northern and Southern Italy. Nevertheless, we were excited to come back to some of the best pasta dishes and pizza in its birthplace, of course! 
    Piazza Garibaldi was under construction when we got to Napoli so it was a trick getting to our hotel. Ranie, wet, tired and hungry, was already upset. All of which melted into oblivion when we went to a neighborhood joint called La Brace and ordered an authentic Margherita pizza, a Quattro Formaggi pizza, and Chicken Limone.




     Having had our fill of pizza in its birthplace, we decided to call it yet another early night and turned in.

     We had a chance to catch up with some zzzz prior to taking the Circumvesuviana train to go to Sorrento. We passed by Pompei but decided not to get off since we were pressed for time. We had half a day to explore both Amalfi and Sorrento.

     We instantly loved Sorrento! It was sand, sun, food, and fun, among the equally sunny disposition of the Southern Italians! They were all friendly and helpful that they suggested for us to visit a ristorante by Marina Grande frequented by tourists. We, however, opted to dine by the homey ristorante, La Vela Bianca, by Marina Piccola, frequented by the locals. It was a steep trek down but well worth our sighs and deep breaths since the sights of the nearby Bay of Naples more than distracted our attention.

     Thirsty and famished, we ordered some freshly squeezed Sorrento lemon juice. Yummy! I was out of words! Then I just realized that my husband was missing in action. Little did I know that he was able to convince the server to lead him to the kitchen to observe the chefs cook our food. It took a little longer than I thought so I started asking what was keeping him in there for so long. The server answered that he will be out soon.

     True enough, he came out, our foods in his hands, with a toque in his head. Puzzled, he answered my unspoken question. "They allowed me to cook our food!" I asked him how since he doesn't speak a word of Italian. He said, through hand gestures! I could almost guess that that experience ranked up there as one of his bests!



     Inasmuch as he wanted to hang out with the chefs and the older Italian guys exchanging stories and sharing cigars, there was more to do. We reluctantly started heading back to the train station. From there, we were to take the blue Sita Bus to embark on yet another interesting journey!

     Seeing it first hand, I could appreciate why people claim that Amalfi Coast is one of the must-sees and one of the most exciting drives ever to take. Glad that the Sita driver was doing the driving for I could not fathom how they could manage to negotiate those hairpin turns and those few inches in between vehicles when the southbound and northbound cars or buses pass by each other. Nor could I bear to look down those cliffs. But looking out to the bay more than appeased the fear! It was just so breathtakingly beautiful. Clear skies, blue waters, scenic views....ahhh, I could live here forever. Our lack of time prevented us from getting off at Positano though. Next time....here we go again!

     And then there was Amalfi! I was just so contented eating my gelato by the beach. It was as if time stood still and I don't have any problems to think of. When we had a fill of the scenery and the sumptuous creme brulee gelato, we headed to the Duomo di San Andrea, where the body of the Apostle Andrew was buried.







   
     We wanted to stay a little bit longer but we had to take one of the few last trips to Sorrento, otherwise, we would be missing the last Circumvesuviana train back to Napoli, so we had to fight our way to secure seats, determined not to spend the night in Amalfi. Thank God, we also just made it in time just before the train took off for Napoli. Dinner that night was at another neighborhood resto but Ranie was so disappointed that he vowed to just go back to La Brecia from then on.

     The next day started so early, We had to take the bus to the marina to catch the first hydrofoil ferry out to Capri. It was another nice, sunny day so we enjoyed the 30 minute or so quick trip to the destination of the Who's Who in the Olden Days of the Roman Empire.

     Capri more than lived up to its name, in my book anyway! It was so fresh, crisp, and picturesque! We took the funicular up, explored a little bit on foot since we didn't have any time to spare for the bus tour, plus it was too foggy anyway. We had to get back down and met up with the boat tour that was taking us around the island. I was mesmerized by the beauty Mother Nature has endowed Capri with. The Faraglioni was larger than life. I just loved it to bits.




     But of course, Grotta Azura still awaited us so by the time we got to the area, we boarded yet another smaller boat, which brought us inside the cave. The cave's opening was so small that we had to lay flat on the bottom of the boat, while the boatman pulled us in using a rope. Inside, the reflection of sunlight exuded the wonderful blue color on the water, thus the name. He lazily rowed us inside the cave, serenading us with his best version of O Sole Mio. All for another 12.50 euros/each. Oh, well, at least we could say, "been there, done that!"

     Heartbroken at the thought of leaving Capri, we were left with no choice since we were catching the train from Napoli back to Roma for more La Dolce Vita experiences. We hesitatingly left, had a quick lunch at La Brecia, and to say goodbye, at the same time, pay homage to Ranie's Italian Mama, then off to Roma we went! Grazie per tutto il buon cibo, mamma!

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