Napoli and the Beauty Surrounding It

    Napoli was just a convenient jump-off place to reach our destinations south of Roma. We took the quick Italo train and we were in Napoli after a couple of hours trip. From the train, we have appreciated the difference between Northern and Southern Italy. Nevertheless, we were excited to come back to some of the best pasta dishes and pizza in its birthplace, of course! 

    Piazza Garibaldi was under construction when we got to Napoli so it was a trick getting to our hotel. Ranie, wet, tired and hungry, was already upset. All of which melted into oblivion when we went to a neighborhood joint called La Brace and ordered an authentic Margherita pizza, a Quattro Formaggi pizza, and Chicken Limone.

     Having had our fill of pizza in its birthplace, we decided to call it yet another early night and turned in.

     We had a chance to catch up with some zzzz prior to taking the Circumvesuviana train to go to Sorrento. We passed by Pompei but decided not to get off since we were pressed for time. We had half a day to explore both Amalfi and Sorrento.

     We instantly loved Sorrento! It was sand, sun, food, and fun, among the equally sunny disposition of the Southern Italians! They were all friendly and helpful that they suggested for us to visit a ristorante by Marina Grande frequented by tourists. We, however, opted to dine by the homey ristorante, La Vela Bianca, by Marina Piccola, frequented by the locals. It was a steep trek down but well worth our sighs and deep breaths since the sights of the nearby Bay of Naples more than distracted our attention.

     Thirsty and famished, we ordered some freshly squeezed Sorrento lemon juice. Yummy! I was out of words! Then I just realized that my husband was missing in action. Little did I know that he was able to convince the server to lead him to the kitchen to observe the chefs cook our food. It took a little longer than I thought so I started asking what was keeping him in there for so long. The server answered that he will be out soon.

     True enough, he came out, our foods in his hands, with a toque in his head. Puzzled, he answered my unspoken question. "They allowed me to cook our food!" I asked him how since he doesn't speak a word of Italian. He said, through hand gestures! I could almost guess that that experience ranked up there as one of his bests!

 

     Inasmuch as he wanted to hang out with the chefs and the older Italian guys exchanging stories and sharing cigars, there was more to do. We reluctantly started heading back to the train station. From there, we were to take the blue Sita Bus to embark on yet another interesting journey!

     Seeing it first hand, I could appreciate why people claim that Amalfi Coast is one of the must-sees and one of the most exciting drives ever to take. Glad that the Sita driver was doing the driving for I could not fathom how they could manage to negotiate those hairpin turns and those few inches in between vehicles when the southbound and northbound cars or buses pass by each other. Nor could I bear to look down those cliffs. But looking out to the bay more than appeased the fear! It was just so breathtakingly beautiful. Clear skies, blue waters, scenic views....ahhh, I could live here forever. Our lack of time prevented us from getting off at Positano though. Next time....here we go again!

     And then there was Amalfi! I was just so contented eating my gelato by the beach. It was as if time stood still and I don't have any problems to think of. When we had a fill of the scenery and the sumptuous creme brulee gelato, we headed to the Duomo di San Andrea, where the body of the Apostle Andrew was buried.

   
     We wanted to stay a little bit longer but we had to take one of the few last trips to Sorrento, otherwise, we would be missing the last Circumvesuviana train back to Napoli, so we had to fight our way to secure seats, determined not to spend the night in Amalfi. Thank God, we also just made it in time just before the train took off for Napoli. Dinner that night was at another neighborhood resto but Ranie was so disappointed that he vowed to just go back to La Brecia from then on.

     The next day started so early, We had to take the bus to the marina to catch the first hydrofoil ferry out to Capri. It was another nice, sunny day so we enjoyed the 30 minute or so quick trip to the destination of the Who's Who in the Olden Days of the Roman Empire.

     Capri more than lived up to its name, in my book anyway! It was so fresh, crisp, and picturesque! We took the funicular up, explored a little bit on foot since we didn't have any time to spare for the bus tour, plus it was too foggy anyway. We had to get back down and met up with the boat tour that was taking us around the island. I was mesmerized by the beauty Mother Nature has endowed Capri with. The Faraglioni was larger than life. I just loved it to bits.

     But of course, Grotta Azura still awaited us so by the time we got to the area, we boarded yet another smaller boat, which brought us inside the cave. The cave's opening was so small that we had to lay flat on the bottom of the boat, while the boatman pulled us in using a rope. Inside, the reflection of sunlight exuded the wonderful blue color on the water, thus the name. He lazily rowed us inside the cave, serenading us with his best version of O Sole Mio. All for another 12.50 euros/each. Oh, well, at least we could say, "been there, done that!"

     Heartbroken at the thought of leaving Capri, we were left with no choice since we were catching the train from Napoli back to Roma for more La Dolce Vita experiences. We hesitatingly left, had a quick lunch at La Brecia, and to say goodbye, at the same time, pay homage to Ranie's Italian Mama, then off to Roma we went! Grazie per tutto il buon cibo, mamma!

Roman Holiday

     Though I only slept a short time the night before, I made sure I was well awake to appreciate more of the Swiss Alps en route to Roma. It was a sunny, cloudless day so of course, the camera was non-stop in clicking for in every twist and turn the train made, was a feast for the eyes.

     It was  a shame though that I wasn't able to take a picture of Lake Como since it was on the other side of the train. We had a quick stopover in Milano but never had a chance of getting off the train, then on to Toscana, one of my most favorite places. But alas, even there, we never had the chance to get off either. I just contented myself admiring the Duomo from the train when it had a quick stop at Firenze Santa Maria Novella station. Then on to where the destination for the day was - Roma!

     Termini Station was a bustling train station smack dab in the middle of the Center of the Old Roman Empire. It was a dizzying experience, pulling on our luggage and waiting for the cab to take us to our hotel in Corso Trieste. It was a rainy Spring May day in Roma, what more can I say? It was just a good thing that a fellow Filipina spotted us and taught us how to get to our destination.

     Our hotel was a charming place in the middle of the Trieste District. I loved seeing the orange rooftops from the veranda. But my husband was salivating for some authentic Roman food so we explored the area on foot and had a late lunch by a hole in wall place, savoring herb-infused roasted chicken, some pizza slices and croquettes. First meal in Roma and we already could already tell that food was cheaper in Italy.

     After unpacking, I thought we would already call it an early night since we were bound for an early start of the day in the morning but Ranie wasn't able to sleep until he had his fill of Cacio e Pepe on his first night, so we went out again, visited this small traittoria called Pepe Verde and in a few words that I know of in Italian, I was able to order for him what he wanted. And boy, did they deliver! Ranie swore that it was the best Cacio e Pepe he ever had!

     Then finally, we called it a night! Exhausted, it wasn't long after when we all fell asleep.

     Wednesday morning, we were up bright and early for it was one of the highlights of the trip for us - to attend a Papal Audience! So excited were we that we just went straight to Citta Vaticano, passed through the ever strict Swiss Guards and waited in the office of Sant'Anna for Fr. Bruno to give us our tickets. I was starting to get anxious as the Piazza San Pietro was starting to get filled but Ranie nudged me and said to just wait! I was actually glad I did, for Fr. Bruno didn't just give us tickets but rather, escorted us to the piazza, passing by the side of Basilica San Pietro and entrusted us to the Swiss guards. I was only hoping to be standing at the sidelines but indeed, God has better plans for we were led to the left side of the altar, exactly 9 rows away from where the Pope was to be!

     It was a good hour or so before Pope Benedict XVIth emerged on board his Pope Mobile, circled the square a couple of times then took his place in the altar. The feeling was unexplainable...as if we saw a Holy Man, and indeed! I was literally counting my blessings at that very moment, starting with God paving a way for us to be there at His Most Perfect Time.

     I had a renewed appreciation of my faith at that time! Seeing multitudes of people come together to hear the Word of God through His Vicar on earth, I was grateful that I was born, raised, married and will die a Catholic.

     We had a quick bite at a pizzeria just outside of the Vatican Walls and Ranie instantly became friends with the owner. And yes, he got to taste the second thing he came to Roma for - the porchetta! Their spaghetti carbonara wasn't too shabby either!

     Then after hanging out with Fr. Stefano in his place inside the Vatican, it was off to Termini again to catch our fast train to Napoli Centrale. For now, arrivederci Roma! Vedi che in due giorni!

Engaging the Senses in Switzerland

     It has been a lifelong dream of mine to see the Swiss Alps. For whatever reason, this has been in my consciousness ever since I could remember - not withstanding the fact that the Alps encompass eight countries. Needless to say, we just had to be there! Making the decision on where to go proved to be harder than I thought, though.

     At first, I really wanted to go to Matterhorn but time and distance prevented us from doing so, so we contented ourselves with making Luzern as home-base, to visit Mount Pilatus. Actually, we stayed at Kriens which is a suburb of Luzern and is literally at the foot of Mount Pilatus.

     Upon reaching Switzerland, we were so elated that that unfortunate Paris incident was buried into oblivion. We just loved Switzerland - there was just something about that air and yes, those Luxemburgerli at Sprungli (their version of the classic French macaron) weren't too shabby either!

     After checking in  at the hotel, which has an "in your face" vista of Mount Pilatus, we decided to take the train to Alpnachstad, where we were to board the world's steepest cogwheel train to reach the top.

     The views were breathtaking. I just so loved it up there! But it was oh, so cold!

 

     After we had our fill of the amazing wonder of God we were fortunate enough to behold, we decided to take the gondola to descend to Kriens. Little did we know that it was a two-ride descent, so much so that we alighted where we were not supposed to so these gentlemen yelling in German some incomprehensible words were apparently telling us to go back to the cable car to finish the trip. We laughed at our mistake the whole third of the way down. We said that it was a good thing we didn't understand them, for they might already be calling us names for not being able to follow simple instructions. Come to think of it, how would we have descended if we stayed there? There was not enough snow to ski down. Ride down those cows grazing in the meadow? Ah, but I loved the charming sounds those cow bells made.

     Later in the day, we went to Luzern to find some raclette or fondue for dinner but there were none. They said that they only do them during winter months. I was kinda disappointed since what could be more Swiss, aside from the chocolates, than melted Swiss cheese? We settled with some Chinese cuisine then headed to the grocery to feast on some honest to goodness Gruyere!

     We started the lazy next day just opening the window wide, staring at Mount Pilatus, at the same time pinching myself to make sure I was not dreaming.

The view from our hotel room

      Finally, we got the courage to check out, while leaving my heart by that window, since more adventures were awaiting us. We went back to Luzern, locked our luggage in the lockers by the station for nine euros, then explored the city on foot. We crossed the old and new parts of the city via Kappelbruk, then had a sumptuous lunch of German bratwurst, with hash browns, caramelized onions with red wine reduction sauce, albeit stiff on price. But man, the taste more than made up for it. Surely, we got our money's worth! There, we met some half Filipino, half Swiss gents who were nice enough to accompany us to Coop to buy some reasonably priced Swiss chocolates to bring back home. We also saw the Dying Lion monument and passed by the Hermes Store near the Hauptbahnhof. Then it was time to say goodbye and take an hour's trip to Zurich.

     We did not have the time to explore in Zurich since aside from the fact that we got in late, it was also raining, so we just ended up finding some quiche and Coke for dinner then called it a day. Next stop - where all roads lead to - ROMA!

When in Paris, Google Translate to the Rescue

     After saying goodbye to Amsterdam, we took the early morning Thalys train from Schipol to Paris Gare Nord. It was a relaxing three hour trip, while chatting with a Dutch lady about her former work as a painter in a Delft Blue factory. I was hoping we could still grab some Belgian chocolates in the Brussels station but it was too short a stop that we counted Belgium as another place to go back to sometime in the near future.

     We got to Paris mid morning, eager to start our short stay up and running...but it was not meant to be. I had this "it could never happen to me" moment in the Metro when I was pick pocketed by two girls who already alighted on the first stop after which I realized that my purse was open, with my wallet, sandwiched between our passports and the envelops containing our pocket money, gone. It was not about the money (I had 40Euros and $11) but the hassle of losing my cards (good thing I had photocopies of them), my driver's license and above all, my lost sense of security that rattled me. So instead of proceeding to the Louvre, it was le poste de police we ended up in. On a Saturday, there were only a few of them there and none of them spoke any English at all. I filled up my complaint form and waited to be interviewed. After what seemed like an eternity, I was called in by a lady who was supposed to ascertain that what I described on paper was exactly what happened to me. She asked me: "parlez vous Francais?" "No" was the simple answer. The problem? She, too, doesn't speak any English! At that point in time, I was asking myself, why couldn't this have been Spain, where at least, somehow, I can understand words and some phrases? So...Google Translate to the rescue!

     The problem with that, to me at least, was: it translated words, not phrases which would have, in one way or another, made sense to me. I felt sorry for the lady for I knew that she was frustrated in typing the whole report to me but even if it was in English, some things still were lost in translation. Why didn't I take up my uncle in suggesting to me to study German and French in college before? Oh well, that was that and there was nothing I can do anymore. I could have allowed it to dampen the whole experience but this was Paris! And Laduree was waiting for moi!

     So after, arranging stuff with the credit card companies, we hit the streets of Paris, first agenda: Cathedrale Notre Dame - the quintessential French Gothic architecture known the whole world over. Not to take away from the picturesque facade and the impressive interior, I was after all just a normal Roman Catholic girl rearing to light a candle and say my petition to Our Lady! I promised myself that the next time, I would hear an entire mass there - yes, even if it is all said in French!

     Next stop? Avenue des Champs-Elysees - for my Laduree fix! Ranie was so funny when he was kinda hesitant to try the macarons but guess what, he was the one who finished it - relishing every flavor there was in his small box :)

     While licking his fingers to savor the last few crumbs of the macarons, en route to the Arc di Triomphe, he saw the ultimate destination for a chez like him -  Joel Robuchon's! He was dying to go in but we were not appropriately dressed for the occasion. This was Paris, after all! So there goes again that next time adage!

     And another thing that caught our attention...well, I'll let the picture tell the story:

     I wish I were her - sans the stiletto heels :)

     We took a few pics by the Arc di Triomphe then visited Gustav Eiffel's wrought iron masterpiece. We passed by the Louvre and my heart skipped a beat but I had to remind myself that Paris really was not a destination but just a short layover so I was appeased with the thought that more and better things were to come.

     Missing rice, instead of feasting on French food, we had Thai instead, with oh so many Filipino staff. Food was great and yes, we got what we paid for.

     We had an early night...too exhausted from all the ebbs and flows of this one eventful day...besides, another early train ride to Luzern, Switzerland awaited for us in the morning so it was time to say: "Au revoir, Paris!"

Of Tulips, Windmills and Holland

     This has been long overdue but nevertheless, here I am with whatever I can recall regarding our European Sojourn Part Deux...

     After working 12 hours the night before, we went straight to the airport, boarded our flight to Philly, en route to Schipol Airport. Hoping for at least a short nap in the plane was too tall an order for my adrenaline has already taken my mind and my heart to Amsterdam way ahead of our flight.

     Springtime in Holland - only one thing to do - see the tulips! Knowing that they are my favorite flowers in the whole world, we made sure that we scheduled our arrival in Amsterdam during the time that Keukenhof was still open. While we were kinda concerned that we were arriving late in the season, Keukenhof was a sight to behold. Words could never do justice as to how beautiful this garden is. I love tulips - what more can I say? Ranie's downside? Eating the raw herring (which is one of the staples in the Netherlands). He kinda had a short Andrew Zimmern moment but recovered quickly enough to continue our search to see a real windmill.

    
     After spending a little over half of our first day in Keukenhof, it was time to explore the rest of Amsterdam. We took the train from Schipol to Amsterdam Centraal where we took a canal cruise to enjoy the sights and neighborhoods of this liberal city. I loved taking pictures of bicycles parked by the bridges that bypassed the countless canals we went through. For me - that was the epitome of Amsterdam; the Amsterdam I used to see in pictures! As for Ranie, he had two things in mind - an authentic Dutch meal and the Red Light District!

     Lucky for us, one of my closest friends in college lives in Netherlands and she was able to show us around, describing Amsterdam from a local's point of view. Of course, it didn't hurt that she spoke fluent Dutch so there goes that language barrier - although Dutch people are very fluent in English, maybe because UK is close by?

     The next day was spent with another family friend, this time the destination was Noord Holland - in desperate search for whatever was left of the tulip fields - all for moi! While we found what we were looking for, I found another thing I loved about Holland - Goat's cheese salad with baby spinach, walnuts and honey dressing! Hmmm, just thinking about it makes me drool!

     As if it were not enough, we were treated to another surprise - Kastel de Haar in Utrecht. Too bad, it was already closed but nevertheless, the lady was kind enough to let us in the grounds to appreciate a real Medieval castle from the outside.

     Surely, two days was not enough to enjoy everything about Amsterdam and the Netherlands (haven't even started on Van Goghs, Rembrandts and Anne Frank!) but as what Ranie said: "then, there's a reason for us to go back." Amen!