Napoli and the Beauty Surrounding It

    Napoli was just a convenient jump-off place to reach our destinations south of Roma. We took the quick Italo train and we were in Napoli after a couple of hours trip. From the train, we have appreciated the difference between Northern and Southern Italy. Nevertheless, we were excited to come back to some of the best pasta dishes and pizza in its birthplace, of course! 

    Piazza Garibaldi was under construction when we got to Napoli so it was a trick getting to our hotel. Ranie, wet, tired and hungry, was already upset. All of which melted into oblivion when we went to a neighborhood joint called La Brace and ordered an authentic Margherita pizza, a Quattro Formaggi pizza, and Chicken Limone.

     Having had our fill of pizza in its birthplace, we decided to call it yet another early night and turned in.

     We had a chance to catch up with some zzzz prior to taking the Circumvesuviana train to go to Sorrento. We passed by Pompei but decided not to get off since we were pressed for time. We had half a day to explore both Amalfi and Sorrento.

     We instantly loved Sorrento! It was sand, sun, food, and fun, among the equally sunny disposition of the Southern Italians! They were all friendly and helpful that they suggested for us to visit a ristorante by Marina Grande frequented by tourists. We, however, opted to dine by the homey ristorante, La Vela Bianca, by Marina Piccola, frequented by the locals. It was a steep trek down but well worth our sighs and deep breaths since the sights of the nearby Bay of Naples more than distracted our attention.

     Thirsty and famished, we ordered some freshly squeezed Sorrento lemon juice. Yummy! I was out of words! Then I just realized that my husband was missing in action. Little did I know that he was able to convince the server to lead him to the kitchen to observe the chefs cook our food. It took a little longer than I thought so I started asking what was keeping him in there for so long. The server answered that he will be out soon.

     True enough, he came out, our foods in his hands, with a toque in his head. Puzzled, he answered my unspoken question. "They allowed me to cook our food!" I asked him how since he doesn't speak a word of Italian. He said, through hand gestures! I could almost guess that that experience ranked up there as one of his bests!

 

     Inasmuch as he wanted to hang out with the chefs and the older Italian guys exchanging stories and sharing cigars, there was more to do. We reluctantly started heading back to the train station. From there, we were to take the blue Sita Bus to embark on yet another interesting journey!

     Seeing it first hand, I could appreciate why people claim that Amalfi Coast is one of the must-sees and one of the most exciting drives ever to take. Glad that the Sita driver was doing the driving for I could not fathom how they could manage to negotiate those hairpin turns and those few inches in between vehicles when the southbound and northbound cars or buses pass by each other. Nor could I bear to look down those cliffs. But looking out to the bay more than appeased the fear! It was just so breathtakingly beautiful. Clear skies, blue waters, scenic views....ahhh, I could live here forever. Our lack of time prevented us from getting off at Positano though. Next time....here we go again!

     And then there was Amalfi! I was just so contented eating my gelato by the beach. It was as if time stood still and I don't have any problems to think of. When we had a fill of the scenery and the sumptuous creme brulee gelato, we headed to the Duomo di San Andrea, where the body of the Apostle Andrew was buried.

   
     We wanted to stay a little bit longer but we had to take one of the few last trips to Sorrento, otherwise, we would be missing the last Circumvesuviana train back to Napoli, so we had to fight our way to secure seats, determined not to spend the night in Amalfi. Thank God, we also just made it in time just before the train took off for Napoli. Dinner that night was at another neighborhood resto but Ranie was so disappointed that he vowed to just go back to La Brecia from then on.

     The next day started so early, We had to take the bus to the marina to catch the first hydrofoil ferry out to Capri. It was another nice, sunny day so we enjoyed the 30 minute or so quick trip to the destination of the Who's Who in the Olden Days of the Roman Empire.

     Capri more than lived up to its name, in my book anyway! It was so fresh, crisp, and picturesque! We took the funicular up, explored a little bit on foot since we didn't have any time to spare for the bus tour, plus it was too foggy anyway. We had to get back down and met up with the boat tour that was taking us around the island. I was mesmerized by the beauty Mother Nature has endowed Capri with. The Faraglioni was larger than life. I just loved it to bits.

     But of course, Grotta Azura still awaited us so by the time we got to the area, we boarded yet another smaller boat, which brought us inside the cave. The cave's opening was so small that we had to lay flat on the bottom of the boat, while the boatman pulled us in using a rope. Inside, the reflection of sunlight exuded the wonderful blue color on the water, thus the name. He lazily rowed us inside the cave, serenading us with his best version of O Sole Mio. All for another 12.50 euros/each. Oh, well, at least we could say, "been there, done that!"

     Heartbroken at the thought of leaving Capri, we were left with no choice since we were catching the train from Napoli back to Roma for more La Dolce Vita experiences. We hesitatingly left, had a quick lunch at La Brecia, and to say goodbye, at the same time, pay homage to Ranie's Italian Mama, then off to Roma we went! Grazie per tutto il buon cibo, mamma!

Roman Holiday

     Though I only slept a short time the night before, I made sure I was well awake to appreciate more of the Swiss Alps en route to Roma. It was a sunny, cloudless day so of course, the camera was non-stop in clicking for in every twist and turn the train made, was a feast for the eyes.

     It was  a shame though that I wasn't able to take a picture of Lake Como since it was on the other side of the train. We had a quick stopover in Milano but never had a chance of getting off the train, then on to Toscana, one of my most favorite places. But alas, even there, we never had the chance to get off either. I just contented myself admiring the Duomo from the train when it had a quick stop at Firenze Santa Maria Novella station. Then on to where the destination for the day was - Roma!

     Termini Station was a bustling train station smack dab in the middle of the Center of the Old Roman Empire. It was a dizzying experience, pulling on our luggage and waiting for the cab to take us to our hotel in Corso Trieste. It was a rainy Spring May day in Roma, what more can I say? It was just a good thing that a fellow Filipina spotted us and taught us how to get to our destination.

     Our hotel was a charming place in the middle of the Trieste District. I loved seeing the orange rooftops from the veranda. But my husband was salivating for some authentic Roman food so we explored the area on foot and had a late lunch by a hole in wall place, savoring herb-infused roasted chicken, some pizza slices and croquettes. First meal in Roma and we already could already tell that food was cheaper in Italy.

     After unpacking, I thought we would already call it an early night since we were bound for an early start of the day in the morning but Ranie wasn't able to sleep until he had his fill of Cacio e Pepe on his first night, so we went out again, visited this small traittoria called Pepe Verde and in a few words that I know of in Italian, I was able to order for him what he wanted. And boy, did they deliver! Ranie swore that it was the best Cacio e Pepe he ever had!

     Then finally, we called it a night! Exhausted, it wasn't long after when we all fell asleep.

     Wednesday morning, we were up bright and early for it was one of the highlights of the trip for us - to attend a Papal Audience! So excited were we that we just went straight to Citta Vaticano, passed through the ever strict Swiss Guards and waited in the office of Sant'Anna for Fr. Bruno to give us our tickets. I was starting to get anxious as the Piazza San Pietro was starting to get filled but Ranie nudged me and said to just wait! I was actually glad I did, for Fr. Bruno didn't just give us tickets but rather, escorted us to the piazza, passing by the side of Basilica San Pietro and entrusted us to the Swiss guards. I was only hoping to be standing at the sidelines but indeed, God has better plans for we were led to the left side of the altar, exactly 9 rows away from where the Pope was to be!

     It was a good hour or so before Pope Benedict XVIth emerged on board his Pope Mobile, circled the square a couple of times then took his place in the altar. The feeling was unexplainable...as if we saw a Holy Man, and indeed! I was literally counting my blessings at that very moment, starting with God paving a way for us to be there at His Most Perfect Time.

     I had a renewed appreciation of my faith at that time! Seeing multitudes of people come together to hear the Word of God through His Vicar on earth, I was grateful that I was born, raised, married and will die a Catholic.

     We had a quick bite at a pizzeria just outside of the Vatican Walls and Ranie instantly became friends with the owner. And yes, he got to taste the second thing he came to Roma for - the porchetta! Their spaghetti carbonara wasn't too shabby either!

     Then after hanging out with Fr. Stefano in his place inside the Vatican, it was off to Termini again to catch our fast train to Napoli Centrale. For now, arrivederci Roma! Vedi che in due giorni!